ANATOMY OF OUR SUITS
“ITS THE INSIDE THAT COUNTS”
THE HORSEHAIR CANVAS
Our Suit uses horsehair canvas interlining which allows natural drape yet reduces undesired stiffness of the suit.
The Canvas we use are top quality components purchased directly from the same suppliers of major fashion houses,
with canvas interlining it makes the whole suit highly breathable and conforms well to your body shape.
Our Padded Lapel using 1000 stitches to maintain volume ensuring a natural Lapel roll.
LET THE LAPEL ROLL.
A BASIC YET UNDEFINED HALLMARK.
Soft Natural Roll on our lapel
Made Suit Jacket with Natural lapel roll
One of the key things that most people do not notice which is the lapel roll.
Our lapel will always exhibit a gentle, soft, curling roll from the shoulder and collar line, down the gorge to the point where the jacket buttons.
This gives dimension and life to the jacket and is also a sign of a carefully handcrafted suit.
Such a natural roll is a clear signal of a hand-padded stitched lapel.
CAREFULLY CRAFTED
CANVAS CHEST PIECE.
A “Lapel Roll” like no tomorrow
Canvassed Smart Layer Chest Piece To create an elegant form around the chest & shoulders and keep you comfortable.
A SHOULDER THAT SINGS
WE OFFER A SHOULDER THAT SUITS YOUR BODY SHAPE & PERSONALITY.
While the shoulder area of the suit is one of the easiest places for the tailor to measure, delivering the desired aesthetic look of the shoulder is, in itself an art. And, if you recall that the lapel roll can be the first signal of a handmade suit then perhaps you will agree that quality shoulder expression is next as the second signal of a suit made by hand. Shoulders are the most defining element of the silhouette of a jacket.
They can be natural, soft, convex, concave, lightly padded, padded or built up or knocked-down. Shoulder expression is simply the shape and appearance of the shoulder area of a coat. .
Made Suits Signature Suit Neapolitan Shoulders aka. "Spalla Camicia"
Made Suits Signature Suit Con Rollino without the “roll”
THE SPALLA CAMICIA
Spalla camicia adopts a similar technique that is used in shirt-making. By tucking the seam allowance against the shoulder (not against the sleeve), the jacket follows the shape of the body causing the fabric to fall naturally from the shoulder-down.
There is an absence of padding in the shoulder and a natural puckering that is formed flowing down from the sleeve head, since sleeves are cut wider at the top with excess cloth eased into the shoulder and armhole–a look thought of as a fault to some, and pure poetry in motion to others.
Notice how the shoulder is knocked down, with no appearance of padding.
THE CON ROLLINO
Con rollino (or “with roll”) jackets are made by taking excess fabric from around the sleeve head,
and forming a roll that bulks up the area and pushes the sleeve head upwards,
Creating a bump that gives the same appearance as roping. Sometimes this bump or roll can be quite pronounced, and other times, not as obvious.
SHAPING THE SHOULDERS
A precise combination of natural layers, purposefully stacked, to create the perfect shoulder structuring shell.
Even without padding, OUR SUIT jackets will hold their shape
“Elegant natural shoulders” without all the stiffness
Consisting of Four Layers with No Padding or Thick Form Involved.
Hand-made shoulders which requires more work by hand, our suit shoulders never cause shoulder divots which can be found sometimes on off the shelf suits or cheap tailored suits. Its arguable that it may be the work of the armhole but heavily padded shoulders do play a part in causing shoulder divots. The minimal way is to use thinner and less pads on the shoulder for a better contour on the shoulders to prevent any divots from showing.
BELOW ARE SOME EXAMPLES OF SHOULDER DIVOTS:
THE IDEAL SHOULDER FIT WITH NO SHOULDER DIVOTS:
A Good Handmade Shoulder padding have no shoulder divots which creates a flush look that gives the wearer more confidence.
“A man who knows and understands himself, and is armed with some bare fundamentals on tailoring, should instinctively know which shoulder expression he prefers.”
A SIGN OF
BESPOKE QUALITY.
APPRECIATE THE HANDMADE SIGN JUST LIKE
HOW A SUIT WAS MADE IN THE CENTURIES AGO.
MS ICONIC MILANESE
THE ICONIC MADE SUIT MILANESE
It is shaped with a teardrop which narrows down to the bottom. An Iconic look to tell that it is only made by us and no one else.
These are the hallmarks of Made Suits.
The Asolsa Lucida glossy buttonhole, which most likely originated in the Abruzzi region of Italy, is also preferred in Paris, whose tailors refer to this style of buttonhole as the Milanese buttonhole.
Find out how its made here
Yet there are many tailor out there nowadays that try to replicate the milanese buttonhole but they will never be the same.
The Milanese buttonhole is a very iconic type of buttonhole
and a sign of a bespoke suit today, HOWEVER NOT ALL SUITS WITH A MILANESE HOLE MEANS ITS BESPOKE.
Considering the hours of work of our tailors putting into creating a handworked buttonhole, this sole work of craftsmanship definitely deserves its moment of glory.
have a look at our different “HOLES”
DIFFERENT TYPES PIC STITCHING.
Yet another feature of a quality custom suit is pick stitching. Pick stitching refers to the small subtle stitching
around exposed edges on a suit, such as the lapel and pockets and even buttonholes.
Pick stitching adds an extra “finished” look to a custom suit and can be designed to blend seamlessly into the suit
or involve a contrasting coloUr to add visual interest.
SINGLE PIC
A standard basic for all bespoke suits.
This visible stitches around the edges of our lapels are called pic-stitching. They aren’t necessarily a sign of a well-made garment.
However, they can be an attractive decorative flourish if they are made by hand. Stitching that made by machine falls out easily compare to hand stitching.
DOPPIA IMPUNTURA
The typical double backstitch on the Neapolitan suit is called Doppia Impuntura.
One of the signs of a quality handmade suit that was inspired by the neapolitan tailoring
Its is one of our Signature style in Made Suits
GAMBO DELLA MANO
SLEEVE BUTTONS AKA: HAND SHANKING
GAMBO DELLA MANO done by our master tailor
It may be something that most individual won’t notice however when you button up your suit smooth and easy you will notice one different sign of quality that one put an effort into stitching every Single one of the buttons with GAMBO DELLA MANO
GAMBO DELLA MANO is a technique which provides a small amount of space in between a garment and a button. GAMBO DELLA MANO are necessary to provide space for fabric to sit in between the button and the garment when the garment is buttoned.
GAMBO DELLA MANO also allow a garment to hang and drape nicely when button up. Providing little stress, usually using a special fusing thread to strengthen the quality of the stitching.
The GAMBO DELLA MANO is the hallmarks of MADE SUITS GARMENTS.
A Kissing Button with our Iconic Handmade Buttonholes.
FUNCTIONAL
SLEEVE BUTTONS
Our Suit Jackets are made with functioning buttons, known as “surgeon's cuffs,” why is it call surgeon cuff? Prior to the influx of tailors over a century ago, Savile Row was filthy with surgeons.
When tailors started to move in, they accommodated their local clientele by making jackets with functional sleeve buttons that could be unfastened and rolled back, enabling a surgeon to work on a patient without removing his jacket. Hence, surgeon’s cuffs.
In Short it can literally be unbuttoned and rolled back like shirt sleeves, unlike the purely decorative, non-functional buttons that are attached to most suit jacket or blazer sleeves. Another way of having working buttons are generally indicative of a bespoke suit.
Thus, to show that the buttons work and that the suit cost as much as a decent used car, many men leave the last button flagrantly unbuttoned. Is this a faux pas? No. Is it showing off? Sure. It’s also “correct.“ This is one way to show off.
Generally most off the shelf suit jackets or any cheap tailored suits which cut cost and time would make unfunctional buttonholes. The sign of a good tailor is his buttonhole. There should be no loose, hanging threads around it.
And as Oscar Wilde said, “A really well-made buttonhole is the only link between art and nature.“
Why functional here is why
Our Signature 100 Steps handmade buttonhole.
THE Hallmarks of Made Suits Buttonhole are handmade and handstitched.
MASTER OF THE MILLS
These celebrated Biella region weavers combine heritage craftsmanship with natural,
Earth-friendly production to create a fabric you can be proud to wear.
Discover Fabrics we carry
